Chaccu of Ondores
Usually in my blog I just ramble on, so I decided to change things up and throw in some Goal 3 of the Peace Corps.
To help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans
A few weekends ago I was fortunate enough to participate in the Chaccu of Ondores. A day where everyone in the community of San Juan de Ondores and visitors from afar join together for the Andean tradition. Ondores is in high Junin at about 5,000 ish meters, right next to Lake Junin the largest lake that is fully in Peru! During the 70s the vicuna was nearing extinction, activities were generated in order to help repopulate the Andes of Peru with the national animal. Side note: the vicuna is one of the two wild camelids that live in the high areas of the Andes. Being a relative of the llama, and now even thought to be the ancestor of domesticated alpacas, both of which are raised for their coats. The wool of the vicuna is very expensive because they only produce small amounts. The vicuna is also the national animal of Peru and is featured on the Peruvian coat of arms. One of the activities included the creation of the chaccu where everyone in the town gathers to herd the vicunas for an annual haircut, in hopes they will not be trafficked.
After a short-ish ride on a combi from Ondores to the annexo of San Juan, we were welcomed with breakfast and coffee. Soon we were getting back on the combi to make our way to the starting line and we were all taken back by the beautiful scenery of the mountains. Before the herding started, payment made to the Pacha Mama with the traditional cigars, beer, and wine while there were also speeches in both Quechua and Spanish. Finally, after the wait we see the ropes tied with multicolored ribbons and start running to get our spot on the rope. All the people from the community, including the mothers with their babies on their backs, are holding onto this rope while we start off at a walking pace. The pace starts to quicken and I am holding on for my life, praying that I will not twist my ankle on the terrain. By terrain I mean the very uneven ground and at a nice slant because I was on the side of the hill. While we approach small groups of vicunas they become frightened and run towards the finish line. At this point we are probably 30 minutes into the event and my lungs and ankles decide that walking behind the rope is the safer alternative, but man they are moving fast and before I know it I am really behind. No worries I took in all of the scenery and enjoyed the rest of the 3 miles at a nice and slow walking pace. When the finish line is in site, I finished like a champion and didn’t think about all those moms carrying children that never let go of the rope.
We are welcomed with a nice fruity beverage and somehow people are dancing while I was plopped down on the ground exhausted. They even marry two of the lucky vicunas and I almost got to touch the bride. The celebration begins, but really all I want is the panchamanca that was promised to the brave souls.
Overall, the views and the tradition filled the air, it was amazing seeing an entire town get together to do not only a traditional event but also one that is physically demanding. But there were only smiles and no complaints. Even though I might be riding the car back down next year I wouldn’t pass up the views.
Until probably later this week because I have something else prepared.
Sending good vibes